Vietnam – Hue and the Hai Van Pass

During my 5-week trip to Vietnam, I traveled to the middle of the country to the city of Hue. Afterwards, I took a motorbike ride on the famous Hai Van Pass and then spent a few days in Da Nang.

Day 1 – Arrival

I took an early bus ride from Ninh Binh to Hue and then checked into Hue Backpackers Hostel. After dropping off my bags, I went to Quan Cam to try bun bo Hue, a spicy noodle dish that the city is known for. It was really good, and I even tried a bit of the congealed blood (when in Vietnam…).

Bun bo hue from Quan Cam

Next I took a Grab to the Imperial City of Hue, a walled city that was the seat of Vietnam’s last dynasty. I had read that this was a must-visit in Hue, but I thought it was pretty disappointing. I had purchased an audio guide, but there were no signs saying what anything was so I had no clue what I was looking at. It was also an extremely hot day which didn’t help my mood. The buildings were at least really beautiful; I think I would have had a better experience if I had an actual guide to explain things.

The Imperial City

Beautiful buildings in the Imperial City

After spending some time wandering around the Imperial City, I visited Ca Phe Muoi to try their salt coffee, which was invented in Hue. It was surprisingly delicious, and the cafe was really cute as well. Once I was caffeinated and cooled down, I headed back to my hostel and then walked around the nearby Hue Night Walking Street. I explored the area and then had some really good pasta at Zucca Restaurant. The waitresses were really friendly, and they brought out a free appetizer and fruit for dessert which was a nice touch! I spent the rest of the night exploring the area with some people I met at my hostel.

Amazing salt coffee from Ca Phe Muoi

Day 2 – A Full-Day Tour

I had booked a city motorbike tour through my hostel for the next day. It turned out to be just me and my driver on the tour which was disappointing; at least I had a personal chauffeur and photographer! Our first stop was the Abandoned Water Park which I thought was actually really cool. It was originally built in 2004 but closed soon after for unknown reasons. The area felt really dystopian yet strangely beautiful at the same time. Next, we drove to a scenic viewpoint overlooking the Perfume River. We then went to an incense village where I learned how to roll incense sticks (and did a terrible job).

The Abandoned Water Park

A water slide overgrown by plants

The Perfume River

We stopped at a pho restaurant for lunch, and then we went to an elderly woman’s house where I learned how to make paper flowers; local villagers have been making these crafts for over 300 years! Next, we stopped by Thuan An Beach and then a local fishing area. Our final stop was Thanh Toan Bridge where I tried a tofu “dessert” which was one of the most disgusting things I’ve ever eaten. My guide loved it though. After the tour, I got dropped off at my hostel and had Mexican food at a nearby restaurant for dinner (I was a bit burnt out on Vietnamese food after 2 weeks). I then had an early night in preparation for the next day’s drive.

Learning how to make incense sticks

Colorful incense sticks

Day 3 – The Hai Van Pass

I woke up early to get ready for my drive along the Hai Van Pass. This road connects the cities of Hue and Da Nang and has beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and the sea. After having previously spent several days on the back of a motorbike, I felt comfortable making the journey. I checked out of my hostel and met my driver, who turned out to be the same one from the day before. It was a bit awkward, but I made the best of the situation.

We headed out of the city and stopped at a lagoon along the way. Before long we were in the mountains, and the cloud cover was beautiful. We stopped at a cafe with a pretty viewpoint, and it was nice to have a personal photographer again. Afterwards, we continued our drive to the beach city of Da Nang, where I would be spending the next few days.

The Hai Van Pass

Overlooking the sea on the Hai Van Pass

Overall the ride was short but scenic, and it was better than traveling by bus or taxi. I checked into the Rom Casa Hostel upon arrival and spent the next few days relaxing, enjoying the beach, and spending way too much money at Bikini Bottom, a burger restaurant that had been recommended by other travelers. While I probably wouldn’t suggest visiting Hue unless you are spending several weeks in Vietnam, it was nice to see a different part of the country. On the other hand, I loved my time in Da Nang and would recommend it to anyone wanting to enjoy some time by the beach.

A relaxing beach in Da Nang